Wake-uppers:
Scene: Celina
Villoceno was crowned Mutya sa Tagbilaran
2019. Villoceno, who represented
Barangay Dao, was crowned Dr. Cecilio Putong National High School (DCPNHS)-Miss
Intrams 2011.
Scene: If plans
push through, at least 100 contestants of Mister World 2019 will visit Bohol this August as part of the three-week once-in-a-lifetime experience, as they battle it out to
discover who should be declared the
“world’s most desirable man.” The contestants will arrive in Manila on August 6
with the final taking place on August 23 at the Smart Araneta Coliseum.
***
For
the nth time, my visit to Siquijor Island last Holy Week (the best time to
explore the island) was truly enchanted where magical delights beckon around
every corner.
I
was with Regil “Pipay” Torralba Gucor, Edward Guyano aka Inday Charity, Helen Castano, Jerwin Jala
and Michael Lawrence Castillon — the latest batch to be invited by Fiel Angeli
Araoarao-Gabin and her hubby Engr. Jerome John Gabin who, we soon found out,
was an Apostoles at14 and he’s serving as Saint Peter for
almost 20 years.
 |
| Tourist Regil “Pipay” Torralba Gucor explores the island province of Siquijor which is feared
by many people because of the
tales of kulam,
paktol and gayuma and other mystical elements.
Photos by Leo Udtohan |
Although Siquijor Island
has been known for witchcraft, for us there’s far more to the idyllic island
than meets the eyes.
Pipay’s second visit to
Siquijor surprised her a lot since it is no longer the dreaded
province it once was.
“It totally changed a
lot—from a sleeping island to an enliven island where there are many hordes of
tourists,” said Pipay.
She said, however, the
island never lost its original charm.
“It is still a wonderful
and magical island and the people are friendly,” she said. “If you’re looking
for an island adventure with the charm of the countryside, Siquijor Island
might just be the paradise you’re looking for.”
Stories about voodoo,
bizarre rituals, and other supernatural things in Siquijor Island were the
reasons why many Filipinos have dropped the island many times from their
bucketlist.
 |
| St. Francis de Assisi Church. |
But tourists who are coming
to Siquijor have seen few overt signs of it.
Siquijor does, however,
offer several white-sand beaches and other activities.
The island-province of
Siquijor in the Central Visayas is the third smallest province in the country
with only six municipalities-Larena, Enrique Villanueva, Lazi, Maria, San Juan
and the capital Siquijor. It has a land area of 343.5 square km with 90,000
residents.
The island’s native name
was Katugasan, after “tugas” (molave) tree that covered the place. The Spanish
first called it “Isla del Fuego” (Island of Fire) due to the swarm of fireflies
they found here, and later renamed it to Siquijor.
Since it is relatively
small, visitors can tour the island for 6-8 hours. You can rent a motorbike at
P350 for 24 hours to enjoy the island for 48 hours.
Here are the “must-see’s”
and the “must-do’s” in Siquijor:
Visita Iglesia
Siquijor is also the
home of centuries-old churches. The starting point for the tour is the St.
Francis de Assisi Church in Siquijor town. It is only a walking distance from
the Siquijor port. Few meters from the church, in the middle of a plaza, stands
the bell tower that has served as a watch tower for the sea raiders during
the Spanish colonial period.
In the town of Lazi, you
can visit the San Isidro Labrador Church, one of the most outstanding
cultural heritage churches in the Philippines, and the San Isidro Labrador
Convent which is said to the one of the biggest and oldest convents in the
Philippines.
The Our Lady of
Divine Providence in Maria town houses the statue of Santa Rita de Cascia,
an Italian saint touted as the miraculous Black Maria.
 |
| Fish spa. |
Water cascades, beaches
The province offers
wonderful cascades. Visitors can swing like Tarzan at Cambugahay Falls in Lazi
town. There is no entrance free and it is open until 5 p.m. It has a multi-tiered
waterfalls with clear turquoise waters. Look for the swing rope hanging on
the tree and do a Tarzan jump for P20.
Swimming lagoons are
formed downstream where tourists can get a refreshing dip in the cool water.
For P50 entrance, one can
enjoy and witness the hidden beauty of Lagaan Falls still in Lazi town. The
beauty of its clear water awaits vacationers. Aside from trekking, swimming and
jumping into the water from the edge of the falls, one could also swing from
the vines.
“It’s a
very nice place just like you are in paradise. It’s very hot and if you want to
refresh just go to Lagaan falls. The water is so cold and very refreshing,”
said Pipay.
The Lugnason Falls in
Barangay Napo in San Juan town offers visitors time to swing like Tarzan and
enjoy the cold water for free.
The Capilay Spring Park
offers a natural spring-fed swimming pool located in the town of San
Juan. For swimming the pool, you need to pay P20. Visitors can have a
picnic, dine and swim here. Don’t forget Tating’s creamier ice cream. It can
bring delight during hot and humid days!
Going up a mountain can be
exhausting but not in Siquijor’s highest peak. The Mt. Bandilaan Nature
Park has natural springs, hiking trails, caves, and even a butterfly
sanctuary. The more spiritual might be moved to reflecting by the Stations of
the Cross. Visitors can climb a tower to get a panoramic view of the island and
Bohol.
Siquijor has a postcard-perfect scoop of pristine white-sand beaches that
frozen your time.
Salagdoong Beach in
Barangay Olang in Maria town is famous for its cliff diving/jumping.
For P30 entrance, visitors can enjoy swimming in its pristine waters.
There are two jump-off points at Salagdoong at the height of roughly
three to four storys.
“It is basically about
conquering one’s fear. Fear is inevitable at first, but after you do it, you
become more courageous,” said Fiel after her Salagdoong experience.
The town of San Juan has
the best resorts in Siquijor. The undeveloped Paliton Public Beach in San Juan
has sugar-fine, white sand that could very well match Boracay’s
white-sand. Few meters from Paliton Beach is a still an unnamed “secret
cove” where it offers white-sand beach with clear waters. Here, visitors can
enjoy the beach without the noise of overdevelopment and the nightlife. It's a
place where you can relax and enjoy the beach...and to catch beautiful sunsets.
Fish spa
The 400
year-old Balete tree in Barangay Campalanas in Lazi town is believed to be
enchanted because of its eerily hanging roots and vines. Folks believe
that it is home to mythical and scary creatures
like agta and engkanto. But the balete has real dwellers-
the doctor fish or garra rufa!
For P10, visitors can try a
new and fun alternative health and beauty treatment in Siquijor to safely and
gently exfoliate the feet. The fish clean pores, remove dead skin cells
and also serve as a micro massage of the feet and legs, improving blood
circulation. The experience is slightly ticklish at first, but skin instantly
becomes softer and smoother.
“Oh my G-d, I was so amazed to see an old
balite tree. And the fish spa, it’s so giluk. I love it,” said Pipay.
Love potion
In spite of the long
presence of Christianity, witchcraft exists in various forms on the island with
Barangay San Antonio as the center of shamanism. It’s in a hilly
part of the island with a mystical yet primitive vibe.
 |
| Siquijor is known for white-sand beaches. Photos by Leo Udtohan |
For the past years, the
provincial government of Siquijor tried to rebrand itself from “mystical island”
to Asia’s “healing island.” It gathered
some mananambals (folk healers) who
practice several styles of healing for tourism through the provincial
government approved Healing Festival during Holy Week.
But it is during Holy Week
both the “white” and “black” witches make concoctions and recharge their
“powers”. Mananambals from
Visayas and Mindanao visit the mountain villages of Cantabon, Punong and San
Antonio to participate in a ritual called “tang-alap” (searching).
For seven Fridays, the
herbalists and sorcerers roam the forests, seas, caves and cemeteries to gather
medicinal herbs and roots to make amulets, charms, love potions and
other concoctions. They cook their concoctions on Black Saturday to
make “sumpa” (counterspell or anti-dote).
Pipay was lucky she was
allowed to “join” during the ritual-- the mixing of the “ingredients” of the
“sumpa” and chopping of the herbs --at the house of one of the folk healers. She was also taught the secrets of making the
most effective “lumay” (love potion).
 |
| Pipay is trying to make some herbal potions. |
“The feeling is
different. It gives you a glimpse of how these potions are made with so
much reverence,” said Pipay.
If you’re still craving a
taste of Siquijor’s mystical side, ask a local to point you to a faith healer.
Local flavors
Seafood
is abundant in the area and they have lots of local seafood dishes. Fresh sea
urchins (salawaki) is sold at cheaper price. Some Siquijodnons even eat this
raw right by the beaches. Sea-liciously sweet!
Some restaurants offer
“sangkutsang balakasi,” a famous delicacy. This
dish is made of eel stewed in vinegar and spices and coconut milk. Locals said
it gives men renewed virility.
Peanut brittles and banana
chips are good pasalubong items.
The Lilibeth Pan Bisaya, the famous bakery in the
province, along the national highway in Enrique Villanueva town sells
baked breads in charcoal oven. They have
tortang Visaya (a spongy, sweet and oily mamon
that uses tuba as leavening agent) and pan Bisaya (bread with a filling of “bucayo”).
There are
woodcarving shops selling wooden statues such as “bulul” all over the island.
While Siquijor is still
known for alleged witchcraft in various forms, Pipay said her
"fear" vanished when she saw the island’s untouched places and felt
the island’s hospitality.
The locals helped her to
love the island more, she said.
One of the island’s
residents is Mrs.
Laura “Mommy Lou” Jumawan-Gabin, a retired
school district supervisor and a former member of the National Commission for
Culture and the Arts (NCCA)-Siquijor, who has many good stories to tell about
her province.
“Siquijor has changed a
lot. The development will surprise you,” she said.
Even
when retired, Gabin, 78, along with her family, continues to support activities
and programs that preserve and promote culture, the arts and religion as
integral components of tourism.
Gabin said that though it
would still be the same mystical island maligned with the things associated
with witchcraft, the beauty and goodness of the place and the people
itself is already therapeutic.
"Don’t be afraid. It
is a home of peace loving and God-fearing people,” she said.
“We have white
beaches but no evil witches,” she added.
That’s real magick.
How to get there:
You can take a ferry from nearby Cebu City, Dumaguete
in Negros Oriental or Tagbilaran City in Bohol, which are all accessible by
domestic flights from Manila.
***
Thanks for your letters, all will be
answered. Comments welcome at leoudtohan@yahoo.com, follow leoudtohanINQ at
Twitter /Facebook/Instagram.
